Get The Hell Out The Way!

Just when I was beginning to think that my five year (so far) pursuit of the Indians was going to eventually conclude like Peter Matthiesson's quest for the Snow Leopard, namely with lots of interesting experiences but ultimately no apprehension of the real goal, I hit the proverbial jackpot on Sunday night. Uptown and Downtown tribes all gathered in the middle of the street at Washington and LaSalle (only about a mile from my house) to act out the encounters between groups that have been going on since just after the Civil War (or as they refer to it down here, The War Between The States).

A big highlight of the evening was the meetup between the Big Chief of The Mandingo Warriors (The Spirit of FiYiYi), a tribe from downtown, and the Big Chief of the Wild Magnolias, an uptown tribe. In the old days the rivalries between uptown and downtown were strong and deep. In those days, Indian encounters were used to settlle scores and blood often flowed. This evening it was a different tale; Big Chief Victor Harris (Spirit of FiYiYi) made the joyful proclamation that he was back and that everyone should come back. The drums began to beat again and the people sang, "Calling all the people... Come back home. Come back to New Orleans... Come back home."

Other tribes arrived and the ritual was repeated several times, spy boys leading the way, flag boys announcing the arrival of the chief, and the Big Chiefs squaring off and then embracing each other. A sign of return, connection and hope.


It was great. I think Tootie would have been proud.